Day 7, Wadebridge to Tintagel YH.
After the sun of the previous day this was a very misty day throughout. There was so much water in the air I was surprised it did not actually rain. The route was entirely “cross-country”, small intimate fields, all grass.
I passed “Jobs’ Cross” en route. The stem is Celtic and was found being used as a bridge over a stream. The top was recently made to fit on top. It has not weathered well.
There are some splendid tea shops in Tintagel and I was well provided for. Shopping (so a big tea that night) then down to the youth hostel passing the church (some of which is 11 or 12th century) on the way.
The youth hostel had been a quarryman’s cottage. It had a spectacular location right on the cliffs. Later that night it cleared and I could see the lights of Port Isaac, some 6 m SW across the bay.
Day 8, Tintagel YH to Coxford (1 m W of Crackington Haven).
Tintagel Castle was built in 1233 by Richard, Earl of Cornwall, when there was already a suggested association with King Arthur. The castle is on the mainland and on the adjacent island are the ruins of a Celtic monastery. I had the castle ruins to myself which made it even more atmospheric. I met some other visitors as I left who took my photo.
It was then a delightful walk along the coast in a half light as the cloud was so low. Two photos showing from where I had just come, and where I was going.
And what was revealed as I progressed.
“Rocky Valley” a few miles before Boscastle.
Day 9: Coxford to Beyond Bude.
I struck due North, missing some headland to rejoin the coastal path about 4 m before Bude. Rain threatened from the outset. I could see squals moving in from the sea and the cows clearly knew rain was imminent.
This was the heaviest rain I had had since starting. Cold and heavy but fortunately it passed in a couple of hours so later on I had sunshine as I entered Bude. En route I passed this very impressive folded rock strata at Millook. Apparently the rocks create especially big long waves that very good surfers can ride.
On leaving Tintagel the day before I had seen large white buildings on the horizon when looking North. Nothing was marked on the map and I was intrigued that a new hotel or such like might be given planning permission to create such an intrusion on the view. They became clearer today as I advanced towards Bude where I discovered that it was a satellite of the Cheltenham GCHQ complex. The second photo was taken the following day as I walked straight past the complex (I thought I had better take the photo from some distance away as iIthought I might get arrested if I stopped at their front gate to photograph).
After a splendid pot of tea in Bude I loaded up with food at the Co Op and set off for my home for the night, Sandymouth Holiday Park.
Stone walls changed character again.
The holiday park was really pleasant. A fantatstc location with great views over the sea. I started my day just beyond the headland seen in the far distance of this photo.
They had only opened the park the day before so it was still pretty quiet-but did have a small shop and a bar so all very pleasant. Again, mine was the only tent so I had a a huge field to myself. They had a problem with the water supply to the toilets and shower block so gave me a key to a nearby chalet. The central heating was on, and I had a lovely hot shower in a warm bathroom-luxury. Staff could not have been more friendly and helpful. They had saved a leaflet advertising a “baggage-carrying” service for those walking the coastal footpath and were most concerned the following day that I had been OK as there had been a hard frost overnight.